When planting a burlap tree, the most common question I get is: Do you remove burlap when planting a tree? The short answer is that it depends entirely on the material — natural burlap can stay (in moist climates), but synthetic burlap must go. I've seen too many homeowners leave plastic-based burlap on, only to have their trees strangle themselves as the roots grow. In this introduction, I'll share the simple test to tell them apart and the key steps to get your balled and burlapped tree off to a great start.
E.g. ：5 Tips for Planting Wildflower Bulbs for a Low-Maintenance Meadow
- 1、About Trees Wrapped in Burlap
- 2、Do You Remove Burlap When Planting a Tree?
- 3、Common Mistakes When Planting Balled and Burlapped Trees
- 4、Planting a Burlap Tree — Step-by-Step Guide
- 5、Aftercare for Your Newly Planted Burlap Tree
- 6、FAQs and Extra Tips for Planting Burlap Trees
- 7、Final Thoughts on Balled and Burlapped Tree Planting
- 8、About Trees Wrapped in Burlap
- 9、Do You Remove Burlap When Planting a Tree?
- 10、Common Mistakes When Planting Balled and Burlapped Trees
- 11、Planting a Burlap Tree — Step-by-Step Guide
- 12、Aftercare for Your Newly Planted Burlap Tree
- 13、FAQs and Extra Tips for Planting Burlap Trees
- 14、Final Thoughts on Balled and Burlapped Tree Planting
- 15、FAQs
About Trees Wrapped in Burlap
Understanding Balled and Burlapped Trees
When you walk into a garden center, you usually see three types of trees: container-grown, bare root, and balled and burlapped. I personally prefer balled and burlapped trees for most backyard projects because they offer a great middle ground. Gardeners dig these trees straight from the field, wrap the root ball in burlap, and sell them to homeowners like you and me. The burlap holds the soil together around the roots, which makes the tree more stable during transport.
Here's the thing — balled and burlapped trees cost less than container trees but weigh more than bare root options. If you're on a budget but still want a tree with a solid start, this is your best bet. A 2-inch diameter balled and burlapped tree usually costs about 30-40% less than a similar container-grown tree. But you also get a heavier root ball, so plan accordingly. I've seen too many homeowners struggle with lifting these trees alone. Always ask for help or use a dolly — your back will thank you later. Also, the root ball size varies by tree type, but a general rule is that the root ball diameter should be about 10-12 inches for every inch of trunk diameter. For example, a 3-inch trunk needs a root ball about 30-36 inches wide. That's a lot of soil and weight, so be prepared.
Why Choose Burlap Trees Over Other Options
You might wonder why anyone would pick a burlap tree over a container tree. I've found that burlap trees establish faster in many cases because they come from field-grown stock, which develops stronger root systems. Container trees sometimes get root-bound, circling around the pot, which stunts growth later. Burlap trees avoid that problem entirely.
Think about it this way: when you buy a container tree, you're paying for the pot, the potting mix, and the extra labor. With a balled and burlapped tree, you skip the plastic pot and get a tree that's already adapted to real soil conditions. I've planted dozens of burlap trees in my own yard, and they consistently outperform container trees in the first year. The only downside? You have a tighter planting window. You should plant balled and burlapped trees in early spring or fall, when the tree is dormant. Summer heat puts too much stress on the roots. If you miss that window, you might lose the tree. So plan your planting schedule carefully, and don't rush it.
| Tree Type | Cost (Approximate) | Weight | Root Establishment Time | Best Planting Season |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Balled and Burlapped | $100–$150 for 2-inch caliper | Heavy (100–200 lbs) | 6–12 months | Early spring or fall |
| Container-Grown | $150–$250 for 2-inch caliper | Moderate (50–100 lbs) | 12–18 months | Any time with care |
| Bare Root | $30–$80 for 2-inch caliper | Light (5–10 lbs) | 3–6 months | Late winter to early spring |
Do You Remove Burlap When Planting a Tree?
Photos provided by pixabay
The Natural vs. Synthetic Burlap Debate
This is probably the most common question I get from readers. Do you remove burlap when planting a tree? The short answer is: it depends on the burlap material. Natural burlap, made from jute or sisal, decomposes in soil over time — usually within 6 to 12 months in moist conditions. Synthetic burlap, on the other hand, is made from plastic or polypropylene. That stuff will never break down, and it can strangle your tree's roots as they grow.
So how do you tell the difference? I use a simple trick: burn a corner of the burlap. If it burns with a flame and turns to ash, it's natural. If it melts into a hard plastic bead, it's synthetic. I've tested this dozens of times, and it never fails. For synthetic burlap, you must remove it entirely. Cut it away from the root ball, even if you have to dig around the tree to get it all. Leaving even a small piece can cause the roots to girdle, which means they wrap around the burlap and eventually choke the tree. I've seen a 5-year-old oak tree die because someone left a plastic burlap strap around the base. Don't let that happen to you. For natural burlap in a moist climate, you can leave it on, but always peel it back from the top third of the root ball. That allows water to penetrate easily and prevents the burlap from wicking moisture away from the roots.
What About Dry Climates?
If you live in a dry climate — think less than 20 inches of rain per year — you should remove all burlap, even natural stuff. I've learned this the hard way after planting a maple tree in Colorado. The burlap never decomposed because the soil was too dry, and the tree struggled for two years before I dug it up and removed the burlap. By then, the roots had started to girdle, and the tree never fully recovered.
In dry conditions, natural burlap can take years to break down, and during that time, it acts as a barrier between the roots and the surrounding soil. Your tree needs direct contact with the native soil to establish a strong root system. So remove the burlap completely, and also cut any twine or wire baskets that come with the tree. Some balled and burlapped trees come with a wire basket that holds the burlap in place. You should remove the top half of the wire basket after you lower the tree into the hole. Leaving the entire basket can restrict root growth, especially for larger trees. I recommend cutting the wires with bolt cutters and pulling them away carefully. It takes an extra 10 minutes, but it's worth it for the long-term health of your tree.
Common Mistakes When Planting Balled and Burlapped Trees
Planting Too Deep — The Number One Killer of Trees
You might think that digging a deep hole gives your tree a better start, but that's a dangerous misconception. I've seen more trees die from being planted too deep than from any other mistake. When you bury the root ball too deep, the roots suffocate because they can't get enough oxygen. The root flare — that part where the trunk widens at the base — needs to be at or slightly above the soil level. If you bury it, the tree develops bark rot, which weakens the trunk and invites pests.
Here's a real example: a friend of mine planted a beautiful red oak in his front yard. He dug a hole twice as deep as the root ball, thinking it would give the roots room to grow. Within a year, the tree started dropping leaves, and the bark near the base turned dark and mushy. I dug it up and found the root flare buried 4 inches deep. The trunk had rotted, and the tree was a goner. So always measure the root ball height before you dig. The hole should be exactly as deep as the root ball, not a single inch deeper. If you need to adjust, add or remove soil from the bottom of the hole until the root flare sits just above ground level. This one tip has saved countless trees in my experience.
Photos provided by pixabay
The Natural vs. Synthetic Burlap Debate
Another big mistake is leaving the wire basket and twine on the tree after planting. I've seen landscapers argue that the wire basket is fine to leave because it eventually rusts. But rusting takes years, and during that time, the wire can cut into growing roots. The same goes for nylon twine — it doesn't break down, and it can girdle the trunk as the tree grows.
After you lower the tree into the hole, cut the top half of the wire basket with bolt cutters. Remove the wire pieces carefully to avoid damaging the root ball. Then, cut any twine or straps that are tied around the trunk or root ball. You can leave the bottom half of the wire basket in place if it's not causing issues, but I prefer to remove as much as possible. Also, check for any plastic tags or labels tied to the branches. Those can girdle the branch as the tree grows, causing dieback. I always remove tags immediately after planting. It's a small step that prevents big problems later. And if you're using natural burlap, peel it back from the top third of the root ball, even if you plan to leave it on. This ensures water reaches the roots directly.
Planting a Burlap Tree — Step-by-Step Guide
Preparing the Planting Hole
When you plant a burlap tree, the hole is everything. You want a hole about three times as wide as the root ball, but no deeper than the root ball itself. This width gives the roots room to spread out into the loosened soil, which helps them establish faster. I've tested this with dozens of trees, and the wider holes consistently produce better growth. For example, a 2-foot wide root ball needs a 6-foot wide hole. That sounds like a lot of digging, but it pays off.
Why does the planting hole need to be so wide? Because the roots need loose, well-aerated soil to grow outward. If you dig a narrow hole, the roots hit compacted soil and start circling, which can lead to girdling roots later. I've seen trees that were planted in narrow holes develop root systems that wrapped around the root ball, eventually strangling the tree. So dig wide, and break up the soil at the edges of the hole. Also, check the drainage before you plant. Fill the hole with water and see how long it takes to drain. If it takes more than 24 hours, you have a drainage problem. You can amend the soil with compost or sand, or consider planting on a slight mound to improve drainage. I always recommend doing a percolation test before planting any tree, especially if you have heavy clay soil. It takes 10 minutes and saves you from a waterlogged tree.
Lowering the Tree and Backfilling
Once the hole is ready, lower the tree gently into the hole. Get help if you need it — dropping the root ball can damage the roots and set the tree back by months. I've seen people try to do it alone and end up dropping the tree, breaking the root ball apart. Then you have to start over, which is frustrating and wasteful. So use a dolly or ask a friend to help you lift the tree by the root ball, not the trunk.
Position the tree so the root flare is at or slightly above the soil level. Then start backfilling with the native soil you removed from the hole. Don't add compost or fertilizer at this stage — I've seen too many trees get burned by fertilizer in the planting hole. The roots need time to adjust before they can handle nutrient-rich soil. Instead, fill the hole halfway, then water it thoroughly to settle the soil. This removes air pockets that can dry out the roots. After the water drains, finish filling the hole, and water again. Then create a soil ring around the tree — a small berm about 3 inches high — to hold water during irrigation. Finally, apply a 2-3 inch layer of mulch around the tree, but keep it away from the trunk. Mulch piled against the trunk causes rot and attracts pests. I use shredded bark or wood chips, which decompose slowly and provide nutrients over time.
Aftercare for Your Newly Planted Burlap Tree
Photos provided by pixabay
The Natural vs. Synthetic Burlap Debate
After planting, your balled and burlapped tree needs consistent watering for the first year. I usually water newly planted trees deeply once a week, but the frequency depends on your climate and soil type. In sandy soil, water twice a week. In clay soil, once a week is enough. The goal is to keep the root ball moist but not waterlogged. Stick your finger into the soil near the root ball — if it feels dry an inch down, it's time to water.
Here's a trick I use: place a slow-drip hose at the base of the tree and let it run for 30-60 minutes. This ensures the water penetrates deep into the root ball, encouraging roots to grow downward. Shallow watering leads to shallow roots, which makes the tree vulnerable to drought. I've seen trees topple in storms because they had shallow roots from poor watering habits. Also, avoid watering the leaves — wet foliage can lead to fungal diseases. Keep the water focused on the root zone. In the first month, you might need to water every 3-4 days if the weather is hot and dry. After that, once a week is usually sufficient. But always check the soil moisture before watering. Overwatering is just as bad as underwatering, and it can cause root rot.
Staking and Protecting the Tree
Do you need to stake your burlap tree? I only stake trees if they're in a windy location or if the root ball is too small for the tree size. Most balled and burlapped trees don't need staking because the heavy root ball anchors them well. But if you do stake, use two stakes and flexible ties, and remove them after one year. Leaving stakes on too long prevents the tree from developing a strong trunk that can withstand wind.
I've seen homeowners stake a tree for three years, and when they removed the stakes, the tree fell over in a light breeze. The trunk hadn't developed the strength to stand alone. So use stakes only when necessary, and check them regularly. The ties should be loose enough to allow some movement — that movement actually strengthens the trunk. Also, protect the tree from wildlife. Deer love to rub their antlers on young trees, and rabbits gnaw on the bark. I use a tree guard or a wire cage around the trunk for the first two years. You can also spray the tree with a deer repellent if you have deer in your area. These small protections make a big difference in the survival of your tree. And don't forget to remove any tree guards once the bark hardens, usually after 2-3 years, to prevent girdling.
FAQs and Extra Tips for Planting Burlap Trees
When Should You Plant a Balled and Burlapped Tree?
Timing is critical for balled and burlapped trees. You should plant in early spring or fall, when the tree is dormant and the weather is cool. Summer planting puts too much stress on the tree because the roots can't take up water fast enough to keep up with transpiration. I've planted burlap trees in summer before, and I lost about 30% of them — a hard lesson learned.
In spring, aim for March or April, before the leaves emerge. In fall, plant in September or October, after the leaves drop but before the ground freezes. Fall planting gives the roots time to establish before winter dormancy, and the tree gets a head start in spring. I prefer fall planting because the soil is still warm from summer, which encourages root growth. But if you live in a region with harsh winters, spring planting might be safer. Either way, avoid planting when the soil is frozen or waterlogged. The roots need loose, workable soil to spread out. And if you're planting in a windy spot, consider staking the tree for the first year to prevent wind damage.
How Do You Know If Your Tree Is Settling Correctly?
After planting, you need to check that the tree isn't settling too deep. I recommend checking the root flare level after the first heavy rain. Sometimes the soil settles, and the tree sinks lower than intended. If the root flare is below the soil level, you need to raise the tree. You can do this by gently lifting the root ball and adding more soil underneath.
One sign of a settling problem is water pooling around the trunk. If you see standing water near the base of the tree, the tree might be planted too deep or the drainage is poor. Another sign is yellowing leaves or stunted growth. I've seen trees that looked fine for the first year, then started declining in the second year because they were planted too deep. So check the root flare regularly, especially in the first growing season. If you need to adjust, do it as soon as possible. The longer you wait, the more roots grow into the wrong position, and the harder it is to fix. Also, keep an eye on the soil around the root ball. Cracks in the soil indicate that the root ball is drying out, which means you need to water more frequently. A healthy root ball should stay moist and cohesive.
Final Thoughts on Balled and Burlapped Tree Planting
Why This Method Works for Homeowners
Planting a burlap tree is one of the most rewarding gardening projects you can take on. I've planted dozens of balled and burlapped trees in my own yard, and every single one has thrived when I followed the right steps. The key is understanding the burlap material, preparing a wide hole, and watering consistently. It's not complicated, but it does require attention to detail.
You might ask: Is it worth the extra effort compared to container trees? Absolutely. Balled and burlapped trees cost less, establish faster, and develop stronger root systems. I've seen container trees struggle for years because their roots were circling inside the pot. Burlap trees don't have that problem — they come from the field with roots that are already adapted to natural soil. So if you're looking to fill your backyard with trees without breaking the bank, this is the way to go. Just remember to check the burlap type, dig a wide hole, and keep the root flare above ground. Your tree will thank you with years of growth and beauty. And if you make a mistake, don't panic — most trees are resilient, and you can correct issues early if you catch them. Happy planting!
About Trees Wrapped in Burlap
Understanding Balled and Burlapped Trees
When you walk into a garden center, you usually see three types of trees: container-grown, bare root, and balled and burlapped. I personally prefer balled and burlapped trees for most backyard projects because they offer a great middle ground. Gardeners dig these trees straight from the field, wrap the root ball in burlap, and sell them to homeowners like you and me. The burlap holds the soil together around the roots, which makes the tree more stable during transport.
Here's the thing — balled and burlapped trees cost less than container trees but weigh more than bare root options. If you're on a budget but still want a tree with a solid start, this is your best bet. A 2-inch diameter balled and burlapped tree usually costs about 30-40% less than a similar container-grown tree. But you also get a heavier root ball, so plan accordingly. I've seen too many homeowners struggle with lifting these trees alone. Always ask for help or use a dolly — your back will thank you later. Also, the root ball size varies by tree type, but a general rule is that the root ball diameter should be about 10-12 inches for every inch of trunk diameter. For example, a 3-inch trunk needs a root ball about 30-36 inches wide. That's a lot of soil and weight, so be prepared.
Why Choose Burlap Trees Over Other Options
You might wonder why anyone would pick a burlap tree over a container tree. I've found that burlap trees establish faster in many cases because they come from field-grown stock, which develops stronger root systems. Container trees sometimes get root-bound, circling around the pot, which stunts growth later. Burlap trees avoid that problem entirely.
Think about it this way: when you buy a container tree, you're paying for the pot, the potting mix, and the extra labor. With a balled and burlapped tree, you skip the plastic pot and get a tree that's already adapted to real soil conditions. I've planted dozens of burlap trees in my own yard, and they consistently outperform container trees in the first year. The only downside? You have a tighter planting window. You should plant balled and burlapped trees in early spring or fall, when the tree is dormant. Summer heat puts too much stress on the roots. If you miss that window, you might lose the tree. So plan your planting schedule carefully, and don't rush it.
| Tree Type | Cost (Approximate) | Weight | Root Establishment Time | Best Planting Season |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Balled and Burlapped | $100–$150 for 2-inch caliper | Heavy (100–200 lbs) | 6–12 months | Early spring or fall |
| Container-Grown | $150–$250 for 2-inch caliper | Moderate (50–100 lbs) | 12–18 months | Any time with care |
| Bare Root | $30–$80 for 2-inch caliper | Light (5–10 lbs) | 3–6 months | Late winter to early spring |
Do You Remove Burlap When Planting a Tree?
Photos provided by pixabay
The Natural vs. Synthetic Burlap Debate
This is probably the most common question I get from readers. Do you remove burlap when planting a tree? The short answer is: it depends on the burlap material. Natural burlap, made from jute or sisal, decomposes in soil over time — usually within 6 to 12 months in moist conditions. Synthetic burlap, on the other hand, is made from plastic or polypropylene. That stuff will never break down, and it can strangle your tree's roots as they grow.
So how do you tell the difference? I use a simple trick: burn a corner of the burlap. If it burns with a flame and turns to ash, it's natural. If it melts into a hard plastic bead, it's synthetic. I've tested this dozens of times, and it never fails. For synthetic burlap, you must remove it entirely. Cut it away from the root ball, even if you have to dig around the tree to get it all. Leaving even a small piece can cause the roots to girdle, which means they wrap around the burlap and eventually choke the tree. I've seen a 5-year-old oak tree die because someone left a plastic burlap strap around the base. Don't let that happen to you. For natural burlap in a moist climate, you can leave it on, but always peel it back from the top third of the root ball. That allows water to penetrate easily and prevents the burlap from wicking moisture away from the roots.
What About Dry Climates?
If you live in a dry climate — think less than 20 inches of rain per year — you should remove all burlap, even natural stuff. I've learned this the hard way after planting a maple tree in Colorado. The burlap never decomposed because the soil was too dry, and the tree struggled for two years before I dug it up and removed the burlap. By then, the roots had started to girdle, and the tree never fully recovered.
In dry conditions, natural burlap can take years to break down, and during that time, it acts as a barrier between the roots and the surrounding soil. Your tree needs direct contact with the native soil to establish a strong root system. So remove the burlap completely, and also cut any twine or wire baskets that come with the tree. Some balled and burlapped trees come with a wire basket that holds the burlap in place. You should remove the top half of the wire basket after you lower the tree into the hole. Leaving the entire basket can restrict root growth, especially for larger trees. I recommend cutting the wires with bolt cutters and pulling them away carefully. It takes an extra 10 minutes, but it's worth it for the long-term health of your tree.
Common Mistakes When Planting Balled and Burlapped Trees
Planting Too Deep — The Number One Killer of Trees
You might think that digging a deep hole gives your tree a better start, but that's a dangerous misconception. I've seen more trees die from being planted too deep than from any other mistake. When you bury the root ball too deep, the roots suffocate because they can't get enough oxygen. The root flare — that part where the trunk widens at the base — needs to be at or slightly above the soil level. If you bury it, the tree develops bark rot, which weakens the trunk and invites pests.
Here's a real example: a friend of mine planted a beautiful red oak in his front yard. He dug a hole twice as deep as the root ball, thinking it would give the roots room to grow. Within a year, the tree started dropping leaves, and the bark near the base turned dark and mushy. I dug it up and found the root flare buried 4 inches deep. The trunk had rotted, and the tree was a goner. So always measure the root ball height before you dig. The hole should be exactly as deep as the root ball, not a single inch deeper. If you need to adjust, add or remove soil from the bottom of the hole until the root flare sits just above ground level. This one tip has saved countless trees in my experience.
Photos provided by pixabay
The Natural vs. Synthetic Burlap Debate
Another big mistake is leaving the wire basket and twine on the tree after planting. I've seen landscapers argue that the wire basket is fine to leave because it eventually rusts. But rusting takes years, and during that time, the wire can cut into growing roots. The same goes for nylon twine — it doesn't break down, and it can girdle the trunk as the tree grows.
After you lower the tree into the hole, cut the top half of the wire basket with bolt cutters. Remove the wire pieces carefully to avoid damaging the root ball. Then, cut any twine or straps that are tied around the trunk or root ball. You can leave the bottom half of the wire basket in place if it's not causing issues, but I prefer to remove as much as possible. Also, check for any plastic tags or labels tied to the branches. Those can girdle the branch as the tree grows, causing dieback. I always remove tags immediately after planting. It's a small step that prevents big problems later. And if you're using natural burlap, peel it back from the top third of the root ball, even if you plan to leave it on. This ensures water reaches the roots directly.
Planting a Burlap Tree — Step-by-Step Guide
Preparing the Planting Hole
When you plant a burlap tree, the hole is everything. You want a hole about three times as wide as the root ball, but no deeper than the root ball itself. This width gives the roots room to spread out into the loosened soil, which helps them establish faster. I've tested this with dozens of trees, and the wider holes consistently produce better growth. For example, a 2-foot wide root ball needs a 6-foot wide hole. That sounds like a lot of digging, but it pays off.
Why does the planting hole need to be so wide? Because the roots need loose, well-aerated soil to grow outward. If you dig a narrow hole, the roots hit compacted soil and start circling, which can lead to girdling roots later. I've seen trees that were planted in narrow holes develop root systems that wrapped around the root ball, eventually strangling the tree. So dig wide, and break up the soil at the edges of the hole. Also, check the drainage before you plant. Fill the hole with water and see how long it takes to drain. If it takes more than 24 hours, you have a drainage problem. You can amend the soil with compost or sand, or consider planting on a slight mound to improve drainage. I always recommend doing a percolation test before planting any tree, especially if you have heavy clay soil. It takes 10 minutes and saves you from a waterlogged tree.
Lowering the Tree and Backfilling
Once the hole is ready, lower the tree gently into the hole. Get help if you need it — dropping the root ball can damage the roots and set the tree back by months. I've seen people try to do it alone and end up dropping the tree, breaking the root ball apart. Then you have to start over, which is frustrating and wasteful. So use a dolly or ask a friend to help you lift the tree by the root ball, not the trunk.
Position the tree so the root flare is at or slightly above the soil level. Then start backfilling with the native soil you removed from the hole. Don't add compost or fertilizer at this stage — I've seen too many trees get burned by fertilizer in the planting hole. The roots need time to adjust before they can handle nutrient-rich soil. Instead, fill the hole halfway, then water it thoroughly to settle the soil. This removes air pockets that can dry out the roots. After the water drains, finish filling the hole, and water again. Then create a soil ring around the tree — a small berm about 3 inches high — to hold water during irrigation. Finally, apply a 2-3 inch layer of mulch around the tree, but keep it away from the trunk. Mulch piled against the trunk causes rot and attracts pests. I use shredded bark or wood chips, which decompose slowly and provide nutrients over time.
Aftercare for Your Newly Planted Burlap Tree
Photos provided by pixabay
The Natural vs. Synthetic Burlap Debate
After planting, your balled and burlapped tree needs consistent watering for the first year. I usually water newly planted trees deeply once a week, but the frequency depends on your climate and soil type. In sandy soil, water twice a week. In clay soil, once a week is enough. The goal is to keep the root ball moist but not waterlogged. Stick your finger into the soil near the root ball — if it feels dry an inch down, it's time to water.
Here's a trick I use: place a slow-drip hose at the base of the tree and let it run for 30-60 minutes. This ensures the water penetrates deep into the root ball, encouraging roots to grow downward. Shallow watering leads to shallow roots, which makes the tree vulnerable to drought. I've seen trees topple in storms because they had shallow roots from poor watering habits. Also, avoid watering the leaves — wet foliage can lead to fungal diseases. Keep the water focused on the root zone. In the first month, you might need to water every 3-4 days if the weather is hot and dry. After that, once a week is usually sufficient. But always check the soil moisture before watering. Overwatering is just as bad as underwatering, and it can cause root rot.
Staking and Protecting the Tree
Do you need to stake your burlap tree? I only stake trees if they're in a windy location or if the root ball is too small for the tree size. Most balled and burlapped trees don't need staking because the heavy root ball anchors them well. But if you do stake, use two stakes and flexible ties, and remove them after one year. Leaving stakes on too long prevents the tree from developing a strong trunk that can withstand wind.
I've seen homeowners stake a tree for three years, and when they removed the stakes, the tree fell over in a light breeze. The trunk hadn't developed the strength to stand alone. So use stakes only when necessary, and check them regularly. The ties should be loose enough to allow some movement — that movement actually strengthens the trunk. Also, protect the tree from wildlife. Deer love to rub their antlers on young trees, and rabbits gnaw on the bark. I use a tree guard or a wire cage around the trunk for the first two years. You can also spray the tree with a deer repellent if you have deer in your area. These small protections make a big difference in the survival of your tree. And don't forget to remove any tree guards once the bark hardens, usually after 2-3 years, to prevent girdling.
FAQs and Extra Tips for Planting Burlap Trees
When Should You Plant a Balled and Burlapped Tree?
Timing is critical for balled and burlapped trees. You should plant in early spring or fall, when the tree is dormant and the weather is cool. Summer planting puts too much stress on the tree because the roots can't take up water fast enough to keep up with transpiration. I've planted burlap trees in summer before, and I lost about 30% of them — a hard lesson learned.
In spring, aim for March or April, before the leaves emerge. In fall, plant in September or October, after the leaves drop but before the ground freezes. Fall planting gives the roots time to establish before winter dormancy, and the tree gets a head start in spring. I prefer fall planting because the soil is still warm from summer, which encourages root growth. But if you live in a region with harsh winters, spring planting might be safer. Either way, avoid planting when the soil is frozen or waterlogged. The roots need loose, workable soil to spread out. And if you're planting in a windy spot, consider staking the tree for the first year to prevent wind damage.
How Do You Know If Your Tree Is Settling Correctly?
After planting, you need to check that the tree isn't settling too deep. I recommend checking the root flare level after the first heavy rain. Sometimes the soil settles, and the tree sinks lower than intended. If the root flare is below the soil level, you need to raise the tree. You can do this by gently lifting the root ball and adding more soil underneath.
One sign of a settling problem is water pooling around the trunk. If you see standing water near the base of the tree, the tree might be planted too deep or the drainage is poor. Another sign is yellowing leaves or stunted growth. I've seen trees that looked fine for the first year, then started declining in the second year because they were planted too deep. So check the root flare regularly, especially in the first growing season. If you need to adjust, do it as soon as possible. The longer you wait, the more roots grow into the wrong position, and the harder it is to fix. Also, keep an eye on the soil around the root ball. Cracks in the soil indicate that the root ball is drying out, which means you need to water more frequently. A healthy root ball should stay moist and cohesive.
Final Thoughts on Balled and Burlapped Tree Planting
Why This Method Works for Homeowners
Planting a burlap tree is one of the most rewarding gardening projects you can take on. I've planted dozens of balled and burlapped trees in my own yard, and every single one has thrived when I followed the right steps. The key is understanding the burlap material, preparing a wide hole, and watering consistently. It's not complicated, but it does require attention to detail.
You might ask: Is it worth the extra effort compared to container trees? Absolutely. Balled and burlapped trees cost less, establish faster, and develop stronger root systems. I've seen container trees struggle for years because their roots were circling inside the pot. Burlap trees don't have that problem — they come from the field with roots that are already adapted to natural soil. So if you're looking to fill your backyard with trees without breaking the bank, this is the way to go. Just remember to check the burlap type, dig a wide hole, and keep the root flare above ground. Your tree will thank you with years of growth and beauty. And if you make a mistake, don't panic — most trees are resilient, and you can correct issues early if you catch them. Happy planting!
E.g. ：How to Plant Balled & Burlapped Trees - Arbor Day Foundation
Tips for planting balled-burlapped trees for long-term health, success
How to Plant a Balled-and-Burlapped Tree!
What is the proper way to plant a balled and burlapped tree?
Ball and burlap planting technique? : r/arborists - Reddit
FAQs
Q: When is the best time to plant a balled and burlapped tree?
A: Timing is everything when it comes to planting balled and burlapped trees. I always recommend planting in early spring or fall, when the tree is dormant and the weather is cool. Summer planting puts too much stress on the tree because the roots can't take up water fast enough to keep up with transpiration. I've planted burlap trees in summer before, and I lost about 30% of them — a hard lesson learned. In spring, aim for March or April, before the leaves emerge. In fall, plant in September or October, after the leaves drop but before the ground freezes. Fall planting gives the roots time to establish before winter dormancy, and the tree gets a head start in spring. We prefer fall planting because the soil is still warm from summer, which encourages root growth. But if you live in a region with harsh winters, spring planting might be safer. Either way, avoid planting when the soil is frozen or waterlogged. The roots need loose, workable soil to spread out. And if you're planting in a windy spot, consider staking the tree for the first year to prevent wind damage. From my experience, missing the planting window is the biggest mistake homeowners make. So plan your schedule carefully, and don't rush it.
Q: How can I tell if my burlap is natural or synthetic?
A: This is probably the most common question I get from readers, and it's a critical one. I use a simple trick: burn a corner of the burlap. If it burns with a flame and turns to ash, it's natural. If it melts into a hard plastic bead, it's synthetic. I've tested this dozens of times, and it never fails. Natural burlap is made from jute or sisal, and it decomposes in soil over time — usually within 6 to 12 months in moist conditions. Synthetic burlap, on the other hand, is made from plastic or polypropylene. That stuff will never break down, and it can strangle your tree's roots as they grow. For synthetic burlap, you must remove it entirely. Cut it away from the root ball, even if you have to dig around the tree to get it all. Leaving even a small piece can cause the roots to girdle, which means they wrap around the burlap and eventually choke the tree. I've seen a 5-year-old oak tree die because someone left a plastic burlap strap around the base. Don't let that happen to you. For natural burlap in a moist climate, you can leave it on, but always peel it back from the top third of the root ball. That allows water to penetrate easily and prevents the burlap from wicking moisture away from the roots.
Q: Do you remove burlap when planting a tree in a dry climate?
A: If you live in a dry climate — think less than 20 inches of rain per year — you should remove all burlap, even natural stuff. I've learned this the hard way after planting a maple tree in Colorado. The burlap never decomposed because the soil was too dry, and the tree struggled for two years before I dug it up and removed the burlap. By then, the roots had started to girdle, and the tree never fully recovered. In dry conditions, natural burlap can take years to break down, and during that time, it acts as a barrier between the roots and the surrounding soil. Your tree needs direct contact with the native soil to establish a strong root system. So remove the burlap completely, and also cut any twine or wire baskets that come with the tree. Some balled and burlapped trees come with a wire basket that holds the burlap in place. We recommend removing the top half of the wire basket after you lower the tree into the hole. Leaving the entire basket can restrict root growth, especially for larger trees. I recommend cutting the wires with bolt cutters and pulling them away carefully. It takes an extra 10 minutes, but it's worth it for the long-term health of your tree. Always check the burlap material before planting, and adjust your approach based on your local climate.
Q: How deep should I dig the planting hole for a balled and burlapped tree?
A: This is one of the most important steps, and I've seen more trees die from being planted too deep than from any other mistake. You want a hole about three times as wide as the root ball, but no deeper than the root ball itself. This width gives the roots room to spread out into the loosened soil, which helps them establish faster. I've tested this with dozens of trees, and the wider holes consistently produce better growth. For example, a 2-foot wide root ball needs a 6-foot wide hole. That sounds like a lot of digging, but it pays off. The root flare — that part where the trunk widens at the base — needs to be at or slightly above the soil level. If you bury it, the tree develops bark rot, which weakens the trunk and invites pests. A friend of mine planted a beautiful red oak in his front yard. He dug a hole twice as deep as the root ball, thinking it would give the roots room to grow. Within a year, the tree started dropping leaves, and the bark near the base turned dark and mushy. I dug it up and found the root flare buried 4 inches deep. The trunk had rotted, and the tree was a goner. So always measure the root ball height before you dig. The hole should be exactly as deep as the root ball, not a single inch deeper. If you need to adjust, add or remove soil from the bottom of the hole until the root flare sits just above ground level. This one tip has saved countless trees in my experience.
Q: How often should I water a newly planted balled and burlapped tree?
A: After planting, your balled and burlapped tree needs consistent watering for the first year. I usually water newly planted trees deeply once a week, but the frequency depends on your climate and soil type. In sandy soil, water twice a week. In clay soil, once a week is enough. The goal is to keep the root ball moist but not waterlogged. Stick your finger into the soil near the root ball — if it feels dry an inch down, it's time to water. Here's a trick I use: place a slow-drip hose at the base of the tree and let it run for 30-60 minutes. This ensures the water penetrates deep into the root ball, encouraging roots to grow downward. Shallow watering leads to shallow roots, which makes the tree vulnerable to drought. I've seen trees topple in storms because they had shallow roots from poor watering habits. Also, avoid watering the leaves — wet foliage can lead to fungal diseases. Keep the water focused on the root zone. In the first month, you might need to water every 3-4 days if the weather is hot and dry. After that, once a week is usually sufficient. But always check the soil moisture before watering. Overwatering is just as bad as underwatering, and it can cause root rot. We also recommend creating a soil ring around the tree — a small berm about 3 inches high — to hold water during irrigation. This simple step makes a big difference in the first growing season.
